Italian Earth

  • Aalok Wadhwa
  • India
  • Jan 13, 2012

Earth

SCO 10-12, Sector 15, part-2, Huda Market

Phone: 0124 6523759

Cuisine: Italian

Timing: 12 Noon to 3:30 PM, 6 PM to 11 PM

 


On a cold and grey new year’s day, a visit to Earth did warm the cockles of one’s heart! The beautiful interiors are relaxed and cosy, with many nooks and crannies to settle into. The rough log cabin look is balanced well with dim lighting and a surfeit of candles. All that is missing is a rocking chair, fireplace and some marshmallows to toast.


What is reassuring in this Italian restaurant is the presence of balsamic vinegar, olive oil, oregano and chilly flakes on the table. I am greeted with freshly baked, steaming focaccia. I ask chef Ravi Bhatt for his recommendations, and he obligingly points me to the trout, grilled tenderloin and some more. “It is authentic, but it also respects the Indian taste buds,” he replies delicately.


We make a great start with one of most versatile vegetable dishes in the Italian repertoire; funghi trifolati (Rs. 215), or ‘truffled’ mushrooms; called so because the thinly-sliced and sautéed mushrooms are said to resemble that other, more highly prized, tuber—the great black truffle.  The dish captures the fleshy texture and umami flavours perfectly, with judicious seasoning and an enticing presentation. 


The sole pesce Milanese (Rs. 475) has a grilled fillet of sole, with fennel, rosemary, and mushroom sauce; and with grilled vegetables and a mash on the side. While the dish is well-conceptualised, it is let down somewhat by the quality of the fish. 


The pollo marsala (Rs. 425), or chicken in marsala wine sauce, is a delight. Marsala is a Sicilian white wine that adds great flavour to many recipes. The breast of chicken is moist and tender. The accompanying marsala sauce, consisting of pan cooked onions, garlic, and mushrooms, deglazed with the wine, is both piquant and sweet. The combination works wonders, and makes for a satisfying dish. 


It is time for the dolce moment. I order my favourite tiramisu (Rs. 225). It comes accompanied with chocolate brownies. While the brownies fall short of being spectacular, the tiramisu is delicious. Though it does not have the requisite layers of savoiardi sponge cake, the light and airy mouth feel of the combination of mascarpone cheese and coffee powder lifts the spirits further. 


Earth serves some wonderful dishes. The flavours, combined with the mood evoked by the cozy comfortable décor, can make for a warm and romantic evening. 

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